Arduino Project Obstacle Avoiding Robot using L298N How To Make Obstacle Avoiding Robot

Arduino Project Obstacle Avoiding Robot using L298N

Click Here To Download Code  And Proteus Simulation

Required Material

Great I’ve now got more current to my motors, but their stall current is still at over 2 amps, I could add a heatsink to the chip and pass more current through it, but instead I got some more efficient motors than the Mabuchi FA-130’s that came with the Tamiya gearbox. These motors are made by Solarbotics and are their RM3 series which fit perfectly, can handle 4 times the voltage but use a fraction of the current – typically at 9v they use just over 1 amp. Perfect.

Having corrected this, larryBot v0.6 was go! I still faced a lack of power to the DC motors – either because my batteries were running low or not able to supply the current. But since my new motors could run up to 12 volts (instead of the puny 3v of the originals) I decided to use a 9v battery to power them instead of my 4 AA’s.

Watching larryBot move is great, even on carpet and with the tank tracks 9 times out of ten he can climb small obstacles or has enough traction to shunt them out the way. Anyway enough waffling – here’s how he’s made…

The Arduino Robot Tracked Chassis

You could use anything you want really – construction sets, your own custom fabricated chassis etc… But since I’m cheap I managed to get a pile of foamboard for my chassis. I can waste and reuse as much of this as I want so its no problem if I make a mistake or want to improve it. Also in theory this leads to rapid prototyping, so when I do decide to fabricate a chassis I know exactly where the best places are for holes, mounts etc…

The robot chassis parts and tools:

Small Phillips/ cross-head screwdriver
Craft knife
Assorted nuts and bolts – A good set of M series nuts and bolts
Foamboard 5mm thick – 1 A4 sheet is plenty
Tamiya gearbox 70097 – assembled in mode A
Tamiya track and wheel set 70100
Elastic bands (normally dropped by the postie)

Sizing up the robot base

First of all the size of our chassis design is dictated by a few things. The axle length: our tank tracks need about 5mm clearance so the space on the axle is roughly 65mm wide that I can mount on. Next we have the length of the tracks and how many wheels will be used, I kept my track footprint small so my chassis length didn’t need to be much bigger than the gearbox. Which leads on to gearbox positioning – the Tamiya gearbox I have is roughly 75mm in length and the shape of the tracks will dictate where to position the gearbox as the driving wheels are attached to this. The final consideration of course is mounting all the sensors, battery packs, breadboard and the Arduino board.

In my attempts so far I have a base that is just longer than twice the length of the gearbox (175mm) which gives me space at the front for sensors and space at the back for batteries. I then mount a smaller piece of foamboard on top of this that then houses the gearbox and spaces it far enough above the running wheels for the tracks at the bottom – also giving enough tension in the tracks for them not to slip off (unlike larryBot v0.4). From here I can continue to bolt on additional structures to position the breadboard and so on.

So using this knowledge you should be able to size up and cut the foamboard to the dimensions you need – a craft knife will be more than enough to cut this board. To make the holes needed for your screws and bolts just use a small Phillips/ Cross-head screwdriver to bodge a hole through – it won’t take any effort, then you can drive the screws through this guiding hole. If you have washers then use them but the foamboard seems to be able to support all the hardware fine.

Attaching the running wheels and tank tracks

First mark out the position of where you want your wheels, very important as you don’t want them wonky!

To mount the running wheel axles on to the chassis I used a couple of small hexagonal bolts for each side of the axle and then used the glue gun to fix them to the chassis – the best way to do this is to put the bolts on to the axle, use a small amount of glue to hold the bolts in place and then use a shit load of glue over the bolts to secure them properly.

When adding the wheels to the axles, don’t push them all the way on as these axles are slightly shorter than the Tamiya gearbox which will cause you problems with the tracks.

Mounting the Tamiya gearbox, DC motors, sensors, breadboard, Arduino and batteries

To attach the gearbox I just used the screws supplied with the gearbox and bolted this to my smaller piece foamboard. I then in turn bolted this to the main chassis using 4 long bolts and a series of spacers and nuts in between the layers to given the correct spacing and adjustment for my drive wheels.

For the SRF05 distance sensor I just used some blu-tack/ modelling plasticine to hold it in place for now.

The breadboard I mounted above the gearbox, which for this I just fixed it on top of 4 long bolts which then in turn attached the gearbox base. The Arduino board currently then sits on the breadboard held on by the multitude of wires running from it and the power supply cable.

And for the batteries, since I scrapped using the 4xAA’s to power the motor I only had to worry about two 9V batteries, 1 of which was my DC power supply for the board. I fixed them to the chassis just using an elastic band, since I’d want to get to them easily enough.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *